Why Does a Tiny Strip of Fabric Matter? Saussure, Barthes, and the Language of Fashion
‘Fashion and literature signify strongly, subtly, with all the complexities of an extreme art, but, if you will, they signify “nothing”, their being is in the signifying, not in what is signified.’ — Roland Barthes, Essais critiques Introduction Imagine two jackets hanging side by side in a shop window. At first glance they seem almost identical. They are made from the same fabric, have the same color, and serve exactly the same practical purpose. Yet one has a slightly narrower lapel, a different button, or a thin strip of piping around the pocket. Suddenly, one jacket looks modern and elegant while the other appears dated. Customers gravitate toward one and ignore the other. But why? Nothing substantial has changed. Neither jacket keeps you warmer. Neither is more durable. No new practical function has been added. The physical differences are almost trivial, yet everyone seems to agree that they matter. Somehow, a tiny modification has acquired social significance. It now com...